Manual to Sidrazzi

There r Seven Oscillators.

Each one is labeled with a number.

But first we will cover capacitors.

If you don't know how to solder, 

consult "A Manual to make the Fyralle"

and try to not use lead therein.

Use "poly" plastic caps, mine are red and yellow.

For all of these, but if you wish you can vary them

and if you really have to, 

use electrolytics and respect polarity!

They r labeled by letter:

Analog Scroll Caps (see also Analog Scroll Mod)

A..G for trangoes 0..7: .5 or 1 microfarad code 564

Oscillator Caps (see also Range Change Mod)

H..N for trangoes 0..7: .001 microfarad code 102

Compensation Section

O,P,Q: .1 microfarad code 104

R: .001 microfarad code 102

S,T,U: .1 microfarad code 104

V: .001 microfarad code 102

W,X,Y,Z: optional bypass, 1 microfarad

And, the big guy is simply just another jelly bean

.5 or 1 microfarad, code 564 or 105

and make sure it can handle 12 volts.

Solder the capacitors in, and trim their leads.  

This is what it should look like:

You will now note the part that I also did here, which is 

th' power section.

There are three parts here, from top to bottom:

1n4001 "big" diode

pk6e10a transient protector (optional)

l7809cv 9 volt regulator

Note the specific shape of the blob that 

connects coppery diode with the lead of regulator.

this diode bypassed sounds better.

Or you can forgo this mod, it's OK without.

9v Battery input is a smooth obelisk, square @ base is ground.

+12vdc Wallwart input is jagged obelisk, again square is ground.

Always put these components in the proper orientation, 

as in the picture!

This pot connects to three holes,

the center one is its "wiper",

and can be modulated.

use 10k - 100k linear pots

The piezos are like pieces of pie:

the outer crust stands for brass disc,

the cherry filling is ceramic wafer.

u make your own bars!

oh btw you can modulate the cherry too,

it's like AM

Nodes available in this pic (in this case for #4):

The barresignals pair connected by a spring.

Squarewave output is surrounded by square.

FM input has little fox ears.

More nodes for number 4:

Glitch inputs have turrets.

How to hook up a scroll button:

These are the traditional method of control for a Sid.

the button is associated with a rectangle of four pads.

One of them is a square pad.  Identify this pad.

It wires to one lead of the pushbutton switch.

The other pad of concern is the circle next to it.

And by next to it, we mean:

the pad that shares the SHORTEST face with the square.

The two pads are highlighted in turquoise in the picture.

(for #s 4,5,6)

(Analog Scroll Mod)

in the pic: do the magenta meaning,

and don't let the turquoise make you think there's a jumper there.

Now, if you wish, you can leave out the buttons,

 and also the associated "analog scroll capacitors",

and use a potentiometer instead of the "trad"

"sidrazzi method".

So, that means, delete caps A..G

and no buttons.  then you make seven pots

as VOLTAGE DIVIDERS

between +9 and 0

(available on caps W,X,Y,or Z)

and thus because these pots are

VOLTAGE DIVIDERS,

you should have wire as yet unused,

and it is this WIPER that now goes to

the uncircled pad in the scroll capacitor's space.

(uncircled refers to the other pad, which is circled,

as the traditional polarity mark for electrolytic caps)

(circled pad is ground on A..G)

(uncircled, then is our "modulation input")

(it is identical in function to FM input)

(Range Change Mod)

And the final option is, you can switch out the caps H..N, to make other ranges.  Such as: .1 microfarad makes a bass organ.  try 330 picofarads for ultra-ultrasound, but i wouldn't go smaller than that.  Try 1 microfarad for stupidly basso.  If you want to use a switch, find the ground lead, which is always pointed into the heart of the instrument of H..N.  The ground will be common to all the switched elements, and the other pad of this capacitor goes to the switched leads of the elements.

Deals @ Ciat-Lonbarde:

Bare sidrazzi boards are available for $250 plus shipping and handling;

Boards shipped with the few parts shown here are $270 plus sh+ha.

terms: boards are sold as is, however, i will give this statement:

"I have personally built about 50 of these, and none of them have

had broken oscillators or amplifiers due to anything other than

human error on my end.  the biggest problems to look out for are

solderer's errors: solder bridges and cold welds."

and of course, reread the manual on the toilet

 whilst you wait for the board in the post.

make sure power components are inserted in proper

orientation as in the picture on that subject!

Click the following buttons to start your order: